Important steps for overhaul of mold parts (part 2)

- Jun 25, 2018-

Fifth,look for signs of wear between the guide post and the guide bush.

Looking for traces of scratches or scratches, this type of mold fitting wear is due to lack of lubrication. If traces are only present, you can extend the life of the guideposts and guide bushes by adding lubricant. If the wear is serious, you should replace the new part. Otherwise, the cavity and the core part may not be well matched, resulting in a thin and thick part wall.

Sixth, check the flow of water.

Connect a hose at the outlet of the waterway and let the water stay in the bucket through the water pipe. If the outflow of water is not clear or colored, there may be rusting, and a lack of smoothness means that it is blocked somewhere. If you find any of these problems, drill all the pipes again (or clean them in any way you like). Improving the plant's water treatment system will prevent future problems caused by rusting and blocking.

Seventh, clean the thimble.

After a year, the ejector pin becomes very dirty due to gas accumulation and filmy impurities. It is recommended to clean it with a mold cleaning agent every 6-12 months. After cleaning, apply a layer of lubricant to the thimble to prevent galling or breaking.

Eighth, see if there is a break in the radius of the hot mouth.

Fractures are caused by loose, stiffened plastic chips that remain in the hot mouth of the machine as a result of clamping forces from the barrel assembly during forward injection molding. The cause of the problem may also be misalignment of the centerline. When you find a fracture, consider both possibilities. If damage is severe enough to prevent petal-like leakage (a term previously used by the user of the mold to refer to plastic leakage between the guide sleeve and the hot mouthpiece of the machine), the sprue bushing should be replaced promptly.